A Rainy Day in Bergen

June 21, 2013 (Posted July 16)

Bergen, Norway was our last stop in a city with historic ties to the Hanseatic League.  Its old waterfront, called Bryggen, has colorful wooden buildings that have been rebuilt and repaired many times keeping the look of the original fourteenth century structures. The wooden buildings have been destroyed by fire about once a century.  Although the look is original, the actual buildings date from about the mid nineteenth to early twentieth centuries.  This, I have learned, is how history is preserved.

Bergen was an important Norwegian city before the Hansa merchants arrived.  Officially founded in 1070 at the end of the Viking period, the city in the 13th century was Norway's first capitol.  We docked next to the old fortress, Bergenhus festning, where Norway's early kings were crowned. The fortress, which included historic Haakon's Hall and the Rosencrans tower, was visible from our window on the Silver Cloud. The old port was just to the north toward the main city, an easy walk from the ship.

We had been advised that it rains in Bergen 200 days per year so we were prepared.  We left the ship early to walk to the cog rail station and a ride up the mountain.  It was overcast when we started out but by the time we reached the top of Bergen's 1000 ft. "Mount Floyen", rain had started to fall.  Michael and I started along a walking path hoping for a short hike but the rain intensified.  We did have some wonderful views of the city and harbor below before fog closed in.

Back at sea level, we walked on interesting back streets to the railway station to check out a hotel Michael had stayed at on his rail tour of Norway fifteen years ago. He wanted to see if the hotel was still there and still in business. It was, but it appeared to him that it was somewhat run down since he last saw it. We wandered through the main shopping district and the fish market.  We needed our umbrellas but the temperature was pleasant.

The fish market is now mostly a tourist attraction selling sweaters, woodcarvings and other knick-knacks.  Fish and seafood was available mostly as fast food.  I did see raw whale meat for sale.  Norway while very eco conscious still allows whaling.  The bloody whale meat was repulsive looking. I won't eat whale no matter how it looks. As Michael put it, "I won't eat anything smarter than I am."

We returned to Silver Cloud for lunch and dry socks before venturing out to inspect the ancient fortress.  We were able to wander in the rain around the grounds, a Norwegian national park, but we decided against paying admission for Haakon's Hall, now undergoing reconstruction and only partially open to tourists.  We looked at the floor plan of the tower and declined admission there too.  I was not interested in climbing 300 steps for a view of a misty harbor.  We had a better view from the top of Mt. Floen before the rain closed in. Even in the rain it was interesting to see buildings that had existed for the better part of a thousand years.

Michael and I walked to the St. Mary Church, supposedly a must see attraction begun in the fourteenth century and successively remodeled through the late 1700's according to our travel notes. It too was closed for renovation. It would seem that historic and authentic is are constantly being created.

Michael and I really enjoyed our day in the rain exploring Bergen.  Silver Cloud was one of five cruise ships docked in Bergen that day yet there were few tourists out on their own.  Most were on bus tours, not on the streets.  We were only aware of large numbers of visitors as we waited sandwiched between large tour groups at the entrance to the funicular railway up the mountain.

Because Silver Cloud was the smallest of the cruise ships in port that day, we were able to dock right in the historic harbor area and walk easily around the entire downtown area.  The larger ships were at long piers further out or even across town at the large passenger and cargo ship terminals.  No wonder their passengers were on bus tours.  Michael and I had a good view of some tall sailing ships and a really strange red ship with a helicopter pad on its front that we later found out is used to resupply Norway's oil and gas rigs in the North Sea.  Oil and gas are big business in Norway.

Bergen lived up to its title of "rainy city" yet we enjoyed walking around it immensely.  This was my first experience in Norway.  I could not understand the language but had fun sounding out the words on the street signs. Many, when sounded out, were close to English or German words.  Norwegians speak English well so I really liked my first Norwegian city.  Not understanding the language made little difference.